I weighed and measured my kilts

[ForresterModern]

Due to another current thread wondering about the weight of kilts in different lengths and fabric weights my curiosity got the best of me and I decided to weigh and measure my various kilts in various weight fabrics, lengths, and sizes just for simple comparison sake. I list below each tartan, fabric weight, fabric manufacturer, "length" of kilt fabric in yds as listed by seller, kiltmaker, measurements used for that kilt, total kilt weight (in US pounds to the nearest 0.2 pounds----my postal scale is AWOL right now), size of tartan repeat (sett size?) multiplied by the number of repeats in the kilt=overall length of fabric in kilt in inches= overall length in yards, number of pleats (regular+reverse). I find the information interesting in that most kilts are actually made with almost all the fabric they say they are. All my kilts are machine sewn and I think look great, from each and every vendor. I have spent the last year stabilizing my weight and narrowing down my measurements from my original orders over a year ago and have finally settled on 45/47/26 as the best for me right now, which explains the variable sizes between kilts. I have also learned a lot about kilts and various major retail kiltmakers, as well as (through this forum) about the hand sewn kiltmakers, and am now in waiting for my first handsewn from Barb T. I think I am ready to become a convert.

I hope this information is as interesting and helpful to others as it has been to me to organize and review.

Forrester Modern 13oz Strathmore 9yd by JHiggins 48/50/26 4.4# 6.5”x46repeats=299”=8.31yd 30+1pleats
MacDonald Clan Ancient 16oz House of Edgar Nevis 8yd by Heritage of Scotland 48/50/26 modified down to 46/48/26 4.4# 7.25x36.5repeats=264.6”=7.35yd 25+1pleats
Black Isle 16oz Marton Mills Jura 8yd by Heritage of Scotland 48/50/26 modified down to 46/48/26 4.4# 7.5”x34.5repeats=258.75”=7.19yd 30+1pleats
Isle of Skye 16oz Marton Mills Jura 8yd by Scottishkilts.net 46/48/26 4.0# 7.25”x36repeats=261”=7.25yd 24+1pleats
Douglas Ancient 16oz Marton Mills Jura 8yd by Heritage of Scotland 45/47/26 4.4# 6.5”x39repeats=253.5”=7.0yd 26+1 pleats
MacDonald of Glencoe Muted 13oz House of Edgar 8yd by Scottishkilts.net 44/46/26 2.8# 10.5x25.5repeats=267.75”=7.44yd 22+1pleats
Original Braveheart 16oz Islay 8yd by boboliscious 44/46/26 3.4# 3.5”x74.5repeats=260.75”=7.25yd 24+1pleats
MacDonald Clan Weathered 16oz Lochcarron 6yd casual by Burnetts&Struth 44/46/26 2.4# 7.5”x19.5repeats=146”=4.06yd 18+1 pleats

[Carolina Kiltman]

I find it interesting that there is little or no difference in the weight of the 13 ounce and 16 ounce kilts! Possibly the answer lies in the true yardage rather than the "rated" yardage. My 8 yard kilt actually has closer to 7 1/3 yards of fabric, most likely due to the size of the sett and my (relatively) small hip size of 42" (107 cm) and a 37" (94 cm) waist.

[turpin]

Another,thing to consider; different mills weave different widths, and most rate it by the running meter. So the cloth can be from 54" to 60" wide. If the mill rates its cloth 16 oz, that is likely per meter, by whatever the width is. Also, in trying to back-calculate your weight, don't forget the pleat cut-outs and the strip from the center, part of whic gets used for the waist band but most of which is waste. e.g., if you have a total kilt length of 24", it is made from two strips ripped from either side of, say, a 60-inch wide by 4 meter length, leaving a 4m x 12" piece substantially unused.

[ForresterModern]

I guess that is where some of my confusion about fabric weights comes from. My Strathmore 13 oz feels more substantial than my HOE 13 oz and obviously appears to weigh more, although a portion of that may be in the length of fabric used because of different sizes. I know some of the overall length used is based on sett size and the HOE is a larger sett than I imagined. All my kilts are pleated to sett.

Is the weight of the fabric based on a yard running length of double width fabric or on a meter of the same, and if so what do they define as a double width, 54, 56, or 60", as I have seen fabrics advertised in all three widths? Then, what do you do with a fabric only woven in single width, such as the HOE 13oz MacD of Glencoe? Do you have to measure two yards/meters of running length single width to equal the double width weight? Stratmore has T100 and T60 ranges as their 16 and 13 oz fabric ranges respectively, House of Edgar just lists their weights and single/double width, Lochcarron has their Strome 16oz and briareach (?sp) 13oz ranges, Marton Mills Jura range is their 16oz equivalent, and I have some 16oz fabric from Dalgleish that they don't define other than as to weight.

Just a few interesting and curious observations on different tartan weights and makers.

Some confusion reigns as to what equals what when it comes to real fabric weights. So far I have liked the feel and body of the Strathmore T60 13oz, have some of their T100 that is absolutely luxurious (can't wait to get that made up), same with Dalgleish 16oz, and Lochcarron 16 has nice wieght but a slightly less luxuruiant finish. Marton Mills 16s are good body and weight but a bit coarse, as is HOE Nevis 16oz.

[fluter]

Is the weight of the fabric based on a yard running length of double width fabric or on a meter of the same,

A yard, traditionally.

and if so what do they define as a double width, 54, 56, or 60",

Yes. Just wave your hands a bit as you gloss over the width, or alternatively convert it all to square millimeters.

what do you do with a fabric only woven in single width, ... Do you have to measure two yards/meters of running length single width.

I would!

[ForresterModern]

Thanks Fluter. Now it is all as clear as mothers milk. ;)

[Bugbear]

As far as I know, a 36" by 60" piece of fabric is what is being talked about with the yards per ounce measurement. The actual width of the fabric could be 54" to 60", which would be called double width.

* Sorry the rest is not part of what you were asking, so I deleted it. *

So the weight of the single width would still be in 60" by 36" measurements, or ounces per square unit of measurement. Not sure it is so standard between mills, though...