Help with xkilt instructions

**kd0afk** · 15th July 09, 12:05 PM

I am trying my best to follow the xkilt instructions but without pictures to show how to do the tricky parts, it's hard. I am having problems with the section of the instructions called "Tack Down the Top of the Outer Apron". The part that I am having trouble visualizing is the second paragraph about opening up the deep reverse pleat and the third paragraph in the section.

**kd0afk** · 15th July 09, 12:10 PM

Also, I am having a fit problem. When I tried on my kilt, the forward facing pleats closest to the apron are sticking straight out. Those edges will not lie flat. I will post photos tomorrow to illustrate but it is kind of irritating to spend hours on the machine doing what dozens have done before me only to make something that looks like crap and not at all what those dozens have made.

**MMorgan** · 15th July 09, 01:19 PM

I wish I knew more about sewing that I could help

... I was having problem understanding the underpleat directions myself... so I ended up kinda doing my own thing with it..... I actually added an extra pleat on the underapron side so the my apron covers it up and taking that big pleat from the apron side and doing the same thing ending up with a half box pleat that the apron covers up and a smaller big pleat. With those extra pleats on each side I think it makes the kilt look more symmetrical when being worn.... I am at my girlfriends house at the moment so I cant post the pictures but I will as soon as I can in a day or two and show you what I ended up with (I think those extra pleats helps the other pleats lay a bit flatter too when its being worn... )

look at the last few posts of my xkilt questions and progress thread there are a couple post's about it there

**sydnie7** · 15th July 09, 01:27 PM

Pictures will help but here's one suggestion: you actually don't need to tack down the edges of the aprons. My FlamingoKilts have what others have called a "floating apron" that is topstitched along the outer folds, but not stitched down at all -- the pleat is open from hem to waistband. I think it helps that big pleat stay flat and avoids some "pulling" issues when seated.

As for the pleats sticking straight out, pictures will definitely help us give suggestions, but I wonder how it fits around the hips? Is is quite tight or do you have some wiggle room there? Tight hips can make the pleats want to unfold. There's also been a thread describing how chubby (their words) or muscular thighs can cause pleats to open up, if your thighs bulge for any reason below the fell line.

All just conjecture and SWAGs at this point but I hope it gives you some ideas.

**kd0afk** · 15th July 09, 01:37 PM

Like I said, I will post pics tomorrow. As for the underapron deep pleat, I couldn't understand it so I did my own thing as well. It looks o.k. but I wish it looked better.
It fits fine around the hips and at the waist. My thighs are kind of large but proportional but it may be the cause of it.
Is there a purpose for the big pleat?

**Pleater** · 15th July 09, 03:49 PM

The large pleats under the aprons are to allow the aprons to remain fairly vertical and overlapping when you decide to fasten a shoelace, or to fall modestly when sitting.

I have to tilt the large pleats slightly to stop them from curling outwards.

During construction of the kilt I lift the inner fold, so that a small triangle of the pleat can be seen over the top of the apron. The inner fold is only lifted 1/4 of an inch at the most, but it makes all the difference to the way the pleats behave.

Without that tilt the shaped edge of the apron is deformed, with fabric which should be behind the apron rolling outwards.

It is all to do with wrapping a fairly two dimensional fabric around an irregular three dimensional shape, with additional folding.

The original problem with the pleat adjacent to the apron could possibly be solved by a similar process, pulling up on the inner fold to draw in the outer edge. Rather than disturb the waistband after completion perhaps a small horizontal fold at the top of the pleat would do the trick.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**kd0afk** · 15th July 09, 04:08 PM

Originally Posted by Pleater

During construction of the kilt I lift the inner fold, so that a small triangle of the pleat can be seen over the top of the apron. The inner fold is only lifted 1/4 of an inch at the most, but it makes all the difference to the way the pleats behave.

Code:

Don't know what you mean here

The original problem with the pleat adjacent to the apron could possibly be solved by a similar process, pulling up on the inner fold to draw in the outer edge. Rather than disturb the waistband after completion perhaps a small horizontal fold at the top of the pleat would do the trick.

Code:

Also, greek to me

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

Pulling up the pleat: Depending which direction the kilt is facing dictates which direction up is.
A small horizontal fold; how?

I really wish that there were more photos in the instructions.

**kd0afk** · 15th July 09, 04:11 PM

Also, I don't have that deep pleat anymore. I didn't see a use for it, couldn't understand the directions about it and still don't so I cut it out.
When I get the material for my next one, and find a way to understand the directions I guess I will make the next one correctly

**kd0afk** · 16th July 09, 06:39 AM

O.K., here are the pictures of me in my kilt. I still have to put a back pocket in and hopefully fix the problem with. In the picture "kilt1" and "kilt2", the things at the waistband are lanyard loops made with Chinese button knots. I thought it would be a nice decorative touch. Anyway, here they are:
http://img190.imageshack.us/i/kilt1.jpg/
http://img33.imageshack.us/i/kilt2.jpg/
http://img365.imageshack.us/i/kilt3.jpg/
http://img197.imageshack.us/i/kilt4.jpg/