A question for the kiltmakers: What would you do with this tartan?

**KD Burke** · 27th September 09, 05:27 AM

So, I'm officially addicted. I've started saving for my second tank which will likely be ordered in January.

The tartan that I'd like to use is the MacDonald Dress Irish, which looks like this:

I am told, however, that is is less than desireable for kilt construction because it is asymmetrical (though I can't see it!) and has a high thread count. The sett is supposed to be just over 9" across.

So my question is twofold I suppose:

a) Can a good-looking kilt be made from this fabric?

b) does it lend itself to one method of pleating over another?

I have a mental image of this fabric, pleated to the stripe, so that the white is concealed while the kilt is at rest, but revealed when in motion. I have no idea if that's actually achievable.

What do you think?

Your advice is greatly appreciated!

**turpin** · 27th September 09, 05:45 AM

Doesn't look asymmetrical to me either. But I'd pleat to the sett, (if I were a kiltmaker) I think the blue stripe is too subdued and the white just won't work unless you want a total white toosh.

**KD Burke** · 27th September 09, 05:52 AM

Originally Posted by turpin

Doesn't look asymmetrical to me either. But I'd pleat to the sett, (if I were a kiltmaker) I think the blue stripe is too subdued and the white just won't work unless you want a total white toosh.

My toosh is quite pale enough as it is!

**Heming** · 27th September 09, 06:14 AM

I'm no kiltmaker, but I'll try anyway:

I may be totally off, but in my book this tartan is symmetric (the triple white stripe is a pivot, as is the blue stripe on red) and has a thread count of 332. That would make the sett a bit on the large side (about 9 inches).

I would pleat to the sett, but to get the effect you describe you could pleat to the blue stripe on red.

**Peter C.** · 27th September 09, 07:00 AM

A problem with pleating to the blue stripe may be that you will have horizontal white stripes across the pleats, a sort of sideways deckchair effect. though I like the idea of the white flashing as you walk.

Peter

**Pleater** · 27th September 09, 09:24 AM

I think that pleating to the blue stripe will actually bring out the red, so the pleats might stand out rather more than the aprons, but in a nice way.

The 9 inch sett should not be disasterous - I have a kilt with 8 and 3/4 inch pleats and it is fine. I made fewer pleats to compensate, or it would have taken a huge length of fabric - but it isn't something that would be noticable in passing. Even when hanging up a kilt with 18 pleats is little different to one with 24.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**Paul** · 27th September 09, 09:41 AM

I don't think it's asymetrical atall.
and personally I'd pleat it to the blue stripe... this way it's be nice and striking from and back.

**Kiltman** · 27th September 09, 02:32 PM

Doesn't look asymmetrical to me either. I'd check the thread count to see if we're not seeing it correctly. I assume Pleater is suggesting pleating to the central blue strip which should make for a great looking kilt. I hope Barb, Steve (the head honcho) or Matt will chime in on this one.

**KD Burke** · 27th September 09, 03:39 PM

Originally Posted by Kiltman

Doesn't look asymmetrical to me either. I'd check the thread count to see if we're not seeing it correctly. I assume Pleater is suggesting pleating to the central blue strip which should make for a great looking kilt. I hope Barb, Steve (the head honcho) or Matt will chime in on this one.

I've looked at the count and I don't believe it is truly asymmetrical. There is a 17 thread blue line that is not repeated, but it seems to be the pivot of the sett. If the line were 16 threads or 18 threads, it would be easy to write the count using the conventions of a symmetrical tartan.

So....it's s symmetrical asymmetric tartan?

**ChattanCat** · 28th September 09, 05:25 PM

MacDonald Dress Modern is an asymmetric tartan but the MacD Dress Irish is not asymmetric. I also wouldn't pleat this to anything but the sett. I usually decide on pleating by finding the most prominant stripe, in this case it is the white stripe. But I wouldn't choose the white stipe becase of the width and dominance of the vertical stripe that washes out all but the white.

Pleating to blue might be nice but you will definitely get the horizontal "lawn chair" effect where the white horizontal stripes will dominate the pleats. Therefore, I would pleat to the sett.

Of course, I do like pleating to a none dominant stripe like the blue in a MacPherson, so do some trial pleating by pinning and see what you like.

Cheers,