sheaf toss practice?

[piperdbh]

Athletes,
Tonight at the Chinese restaurant my Mrs. asked me how you folks practice sheaf tossing, specifically how you measure height when practicing. I'd appreciate some of you filling me in on the subject, please and thank you.

[Alan H]

Since it's hard to set up a pair of sheaf standards, and even harder to put them up-take them down for every bluidy practice, I don't actually practice sheaf such that I can measure height. To have a sheaf standard set up, I'd have to have steel or aluminum posts, braced, that would go up to about 30 feet. That's *tall* and *awkward*. There are some oak trees in the area where I throw. I think the branches I use are about 20 and 25-26 feet up there. I throw over the branches.

I do have a semi-permanently installed weight over bar standard set up at the practice area I use, but for me it only has to go up to about 15 feet (I cleared 13 at Woodland this week). It's quite inexpensive...four 3-foot long contracters stakes hammered into the ground (about $13), two scrounged galvanized steel fence posts that are about 6 1/2 feet tall (free)...two ten foot long ABS plumbing pipe sections that sleeve over the steel fence posts and slide up and down to adjust the height (about $10)... a couple of 25 foot lengths of cheap rope ($4) and two cheap pulleys (about $5) .. and we're done. The apparatus is adjustable from inches off the ground to about 15 feet.

I have a competition grade Weight over Bar standard apparatus that was mostly made from scrounged galvanized fence posts, two discarded temporary chain link fence bases and various bits and pieces from Home Depot and Orchard Supply. Each upright is made from 3 sections, seven feet long of fence pipe, there are two uprights, so 6 sections. They sleeve together to make a 21 foot tall standard, that will handle throws up to about 19 feet. That's World Class Weight over Bar territory, I don't think anybody I throw with is going to go that high any time soon.

[piperdbh]

Thanks, Alan. That's what we were wondering. We thought maybe a tree limb or the roof of the garage or some other measurable object would give you a good idea of how high the weight had gone. Just for my own curiosity, what's the going rate on one of those high bars? I'll never need one, but it's interesting to know.

[Alan H]

I've only seen bars belonging to the local SHA group, the So Cal SAAA and the Pacific Northwest group. They're all different, and they're all custom made.

Commerically available Pole Vault standards cost around $1,500 - $3,000 a set and we could use those, but we don't.

The SHA and the SAAA (California groups) use standards, custom-made by guys in the group who are welders. The bases are basically a very heavy pyramid of welded plate steel about 3 feet on a side. There's a squarish hole in the top that the upright bars slide into. The uprights are two pieces of steel square-section that sleeve inside each other. The height of the crossbar is adjusted by a hand crank, and the bar rests on little steel ledges welded to the bar that raises and lowers. Raw materials for this was probably on the order of $300 or so.

The PNW group has something much like what I have...or rather, I copied what they have. In essence, there's a base which is staked into the ground. The PNW guys have a big hinge on theirs. The uprights are two pieces of galvanized, threaded, thick wall electrical conduit....ten foot sections. ( have three, seven foot sections that have internal sleeves....7 feet fits in my truck bed, 10 does not) So the two, 20-foot uprights are assembled by attaching two of them together at the threaded joints. At the top are a couple of welded-on eyes, to which bracing ropes are attached. Also at the top of each upright is a pulley through which a rope runs.

The two uprights are attached at the top with a wire between them so they're attached to one annother. The whole thing is hauled upright by a team of about 4-5 helpers and the bracing ropes are run through stakes in the ground. Once everything is level, the crossbar is tied to the ropes and hauled up into position.

This is an inexpensive way to build a standard. The whole thing can be build for about $100. However, it takes several workers to erect it. One dedicated and very strong guy can put up the SHA and SAAA standards, alone, though it goes easier with two. Also the SHA and SAAA standards are knock-off bars.

Both methods use fiberglass high jump or pole vault poles for crossbars. They cost about $50 a pop.

[jgorley]

I use the Backstop of my local high school baseball field. It is the practice field and is straight up. I figure the cross bars are 5' apart, giving the top bar 20'. From there up I just guess the height. Every once in a while I set up the standards. All 37' of steel! It takes 4 people and is a pain in the ace! Once they are up it is rock solid. Hope this helps.

To make your sheaf, use a couple layers of burlap (from most fabric stores) filled with bailing twine (from most feed supply stores). Pick up a couple of the biggest carpet needles you can. Basically make a box shape out of the burlap with one end left open unroll and stuff the twine. Keep in mind it takes about 20000' to equal a 20# sheaf. Expect to invest about $50 or so.

I got my forks from a local True Value Hardware. And yes, I finally got a 3 tine hay fork. I still don't like it, but I am forcing myself to use it. The other is a 5 tine manure fork cut to 2 tines and a shortened handle.

Disclaimer: I am not a plumber nore am I a PVC expert, so bear with me! As I describe a practice standard.

An easy temp practice standard is quick and cheap to make. Buy 3 10' lengths of schedule 40 pvc or heavier, one 3" and the other two 2". You will also need a 2" T fitting, and a 3" to 2" reducer bushing.
1. Cut one 2" pipe in half
2. Attach the Bushing to the 3" pipe using pvc cement
3. Slide the 2" pipe into the bushing so that it slides in and out. DO NOT CEMENT THIS JOINT!! This allows the whole thing to be collapsed to just over 10'.
4. Attach the T joint to the 2" pipe that is fit into the 3" pipe
5. Measure the overall length and make note.
6. Drill holes at whatever increment you like throuh the 3" pipe. (Slide the 2" up to give you a longer overall length. Would only drill one hole in the bottom of the 2". This will allow it to move up and down.
7. Use a bolt and wing nut to secure the telescoping parts together to make the rig taller.
8. Attach the two 2" pieces into the T joint

The trick is keeping it upright. I recommend a Fencing T post driven into the ground with bungee cords attaching the up right.

I will try and post some pics when I get a chance. Once you see the parts and start to assemble It will all make sense! After 18' I am sure it might become pretty unstable. From there, jump to the backstop.
Train Hard!!
James

[Detroitpete]

Sheaf practice???? What is THAT? Man, I need to get busy. I hate sheaf. 18 is my PR

[o1d_dude]

Practice? I toss my sheaf over the street light in front of the house.

Not to disagree with the idea of buying burlap cloth from a fabric store but I just use burlap sacks when making a sheaf. Keeping a pillow case in mind, the best thing to do is to turn the sack inside out and expose the seams. The fold the sack back on itself so that you have a double thickness bag. I then stitch the loose end to the already sown end at the bottom. Depending on how heavy the bag is to be, I will cut one side of the assembly off and stitch those edges together. At this point, I have sort of an inside out pillowcase.

Before going any further, turn the bag right side out. Now stuff the bag. I think cutting the twine into shorter lengths is a good idea as it tends to conform more to the shape of the bag as you stuff it into place, but that is a lot more work.

When the stuffing is complete and the bag is at the target weight, fold the remaining open end of the bag back inside and stitch it as tightly as you can.

BTW, I use a special needle that's called a "sack needle". It's got a large eyelet but a very blunt tip. 48 lb hemp twine is good for the stitching and I use a blanket stitch as it tends to self lock a bit.

That's the easy way of doing the sheaf. The one below is made by a more complicated method but seems to hold it's shape much better.



If you are so inclined, stencil your favorite Scottish icon to the outside of the bag. I like the St Andrew's Cross on one side and the Lion Rampant on the other.

[Alan H]

Welcome to X Marks, Kit!

Alan