OK...calling Barb, Matt, Josh, Hothir, etc.

I've nearly finished my friend's 8 meter tank in that purchase of Black Watch regimental weight tartan that many of us jumped on last year (only waiting for the straps and buckles so I can get them done and then install the liner). This means that I'll be getting ready to make my kilt out of the same fabric very soon.

I've decided that I don't want a full tank in this tartan, however...I want something lighter weight...more of a casual, all-purpose kilt. I considered a casual knife pleat for a bit, but I think I've decided on a box pleat. I'm also likely to use this kilt at historical reenactments on occassion.

So here's my question...what do all you box pleat kiltmakers recommend as far as pleat width(reveal), stripe vs. sett, overlap vs. gap?
My split measurements at the pleats at the hips is between 20-22"...most likely 21"...with a total hip measurement of 40.5".

I've looked at 9 pleats measuring 2 11/32" across. If I were to pleat that to 3/4 sett (which gives an effect of pleating to the sett with every other pleat being green stripe or blue field), that would give me a slight overlap of pleats on the inside. I could drop down to 8 pleats, but I kinda like the idea of having an odd number of pleats so there is a rear center pleat and the pleats start and end on the green stripe. I'd also like to keep the pleats less than 2.5" wide if I can.

The other option I've considered is pleating to stripe with a half set...but that would give a fairly narrow reveal (less than 2") and shallow pleats.

With the first option, I calculated only about 3.8 yards of fabric. Does this sound right? Are there ways to bump a Black Watch box pleated kilt up closer to 5 yards for a fairly skinny/average guy (33" waist on jeans, etc).