Formal Buckle Shoes

[CMcG]

There appear to be two main types of shoes specifically geared towards formal Highland attire: the bar and buckle (mess) brogue vs. the buckle shoe. My super-polished black cap toe oxfords are great and can also be worn with a suit but I'm investigating other options. Ghille brogues are out of the question. I'm currently favouring the buckle shoe.

Is there any difference in formality between the two main styles (pictures below)? Are there other styles that I'm not aware of? What levels of formality are these shoes appropriate to? What is your preference?

I've been reading a few of the older threads about buckle shoes and found one that showed a DIY way of getting into a pair. The process is simply to acquire a pair of formal slip-on shoes and then attach buckles to them. Hopefully I can gather a few more details from the experts before starting this project and any advice would be much appreciated.

I have been looking on eBay at some fancier buckles made from iron or silver with patterns on them or else cut steel. The buckles I've seen from retailers, however, seem to be universally flat, shiney, and plain. Is there any problem with buckles that have a pattern on them?

Here are two images from our sponsor Keltoi Gaelic Clothing. I'm interested in cobbling together something like the first pair. The second pair is just for reference in any discussion.

[Cygnus]

The first pair (the Highlander Kilt Shoe or Glenfinnan) tends to appeal to those with more modern tastes, while the second is by far the more traditional.

In Scottish Tartans and Highland Dress, one can find examples of both kinds of shoes (though the closed shoe has a rounder toe). That could just be the illustrator taking liberties, though.

The two evening shoes endorsed by MacKinnon in the above book are the buckle-and-strap shoe and the ghillie brogue, though he recommends the ghillie with red laces and with a silver buckle. I might consider evening ghillie brogues in this style, though I much prefer the buckle-and-strap shoe.

There is no problem with patterned buckles, in fact, I much prefer them to the simple buckles supplied with most shoes; though they're often quite expensive. I'm very fond of those offered by MacKenzie Frain.

[CMcG]

<snip> I'm very fond of those offered by MacKenzie Frain.

Those are some nice buckles! They deserve a hot link:

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I would be concerned that this shoe will not take a glossy shine because the leather seems to have a soft finish. That being the case, it really won't look it's best in a formal setting. It is also just a trifle "costumey" to my eye, although I am sure others will be attracted to its neo-Georgian style, just as some people are attracted to neo-Georgian architecture.

The dress brogue is still, in my opinion, the best choice for formal wear; with a wee bit of searching a nice set of cut steel buckles can usually be picked up for $35-$50, and any reasonably competent shoe repair shop can swap them for the pressed tin buckles for about $10-$20. Patent leather evening pumps with silk bows are another option; for a more distinctive look the silk bows can be swapped for cut steel buckles, as with the dress brogues.

In my closet are three pair of shoes that I wear with Highland attire: a well shined pair of black oxfords, a pair of proper brogues with flaps over the laces, and a pair of dress brogues with cut steel buckles.

I know that there are some gentlemen who advocate the wearing of velvet slippers, but in reality these are dinner shoes, intended to be worn in one's home when entertaining guests or when invited to a smart dinner party. Nothing looks worse at a public function than a gentleman in velvet slippers who has stepped into a puddle with one foot...

[longhuntr74]

...a pair of proper brogues with flaps over the laces...

What does this mean? What sort of flap are you referring to?

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Basically, these are ordinary brogues with a fringed flap over the laces, the purpose of which is to keep the rain from soaking into your shoes. Being a techno-dunderhead I have been unable to post a photo, but if you go to www.houseofbruar.com (or google House of Bruar) and click on "footwear" you'll see what I mean.

[CMcG]

Basically, these are ordinary brogues with a fringed flap over the laces, the purpose of which is to keep the rain from soaking into your shoes. Being a techno-dunderhead I have been unable to post a photo, but if you go to www.houseofbruar.com (or google House of Bruar) and click on "footwear" you'll see what I mean.

Like these from the House of Bruar?

[Jock Scot]

Or, like these rather more rustic ones from Hoggs.

[Joshua]

The first pair (the Highlander Kilt Shoe or Glenfinnan) tends to appeal to those with more modern tastes, while the second is by far the more traditional.

And for the even more modern, a dress loafer with an offset buckle, as made by Clarks...



http://www.clarksusa.com/eng/product/un_morris/82585

These are what I have, and love (mostly because Clarks are some of the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned, second to my docs). They are still quite new to me but fit like a sock and look great - they'll be getting a proper shine this weekend.

[MacLowlife]

MoR, I can tell you that stepping into a puddle with both feet is no picnic, either. My "velvet" slippers are ectually suede, which is just a little sturdier- and it smells even worse when you get it wet.




But calling me a gentleman is usually either an act of generosity or sarcasm...