A fell question.

**Baldybrown** · 23rd October 11, 05:05 PM

I just received my 'The Art Of Kiltmaking' (Thanks again to the Scottish Tartans Museum for their quick service.) and after a really quick leaf-through I have a question for you experts. How important is the removal of the inside pleating of the fell? I checked my cheapo kilt and it hasn't been cut. Does it affect the fit, or the hang, or the comfort? I'm nowhere close to starting on my first handmade kilt, but thought I'd ask.

**brewerpaul** · 23rd October 11, 05:41 PM

The hang and the feeling you have a bunch of fabric behind you.

**Kiltboy** · 23rd October 11, 06:02 PM

If you make your kilt out of a heavyweight tartan, you'll notice a great deal of heaviness in the kilt at your waist. Hence the need to remove the "thickness".

**Calico** · 27th October 11, 04:33 PM

In times past women wore bustles. That style appeared more than once through the years.

Perhaps you can revive it, only for men this time.

One good thing is that your kilt can actually be tried on before you make that daunting cut. If it feels as thick and uncomfortable as mine did, it makes it easier to make that cut.

Then, after it is too late, try it on again and hopefully you too will agree it fits better and doesn't feel as bulky.

**Bugbear** · 27th October 11, 05:08 PM

I am a million, million miles from being an expert, so I'm not sure I should say anything... Apologies to the kiltmakers.

It's just that I cut the pleats out of the fell area on my Stillwater wool kilt, along with putting in the steeking, and pleated hair canvas. It really is a huge difference in feel from having all the fabric around the back: "pillow butt." Much cooler in the summer, as well.

The Still watter I have is close to being eight yards, though.
The pleating wasn't perfect to begin with, and I think there is still one pleat I need to work on if I ever get back to it.

**TheBrus** · 27th October 11, 07:02 PM

I am working on a 6-yard kilt in 16oz wool. Would you cut the pleats in the fell in that case? I thought I read a posting that gave a guideline about the number of yards in relation to cutting the fell pleats. I'm lousy at searching, too. Thanks!

The Brus

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 28th October 11, 06:03 AM

It is very important, and one of the hallmarks of a well made, tailored kilt. If you did not cut out the inside pleats, then instead of a nice, fitted garment, you'd end up with a cushion on your rear!

Note, this is dependent upon the amount of fabric used. For example, I never cut out the inside pleats on a four yard kilt. It simply is not necessary, and would actually be detrimental to the integrity of the garment. When I make a five yard kilt, I usually don't cut out the pleats, but sometimes do if it is for a thinner individual, and I feel there is excessive overlap in the pleats. For kilts made from six yards or greater, I always cut out the pleats.

**Baldybrown** · 28th October 11, 01:36 PM

Thanks guys, now all I need is to start hunting the fabric for my first 'learning curve kilt'.

**TheBrus** · 28th October 11, 02:19 PM

Mr Brown, I think Marton Mills has an excellent selection of 16 oz cloth. I purchased 2 yards of double-width for $40 a yard, including shipping. If you Google their site, contact them and ask for a price list on the Jura range. There's nothing like starting with decent materials to help you do your best.

**Dale-of-Cedars** · 28th October 11, 03:18 PM

Do any kiltmakers refrain from cutting the last 2 or 3 pleats on each side, to allow for 'expansion' in the eventuality of letting the kilt out in the future?

I did read on one site of hand-sewn kilts that were specifically left un-cut so they could be unstitched and 're-made'. Has anyone ever really done that?