I have worked on just about every kilt makers kilt at this point (90% are just buckle moves, the rest are re-linings), and I'm always learning bits and pieces of technique when I do. It really is true that while kilt making has a standard as far as construction goes, its the smaller details that become unique to individual makers.
I recently replaced a prong-less buckle on a kilt made by Burnett & Struth. While I didn't have to take anything apart excepting the buckle strap, I did notice the INCREDIBLE fringe on this kilt. It was triple layered, but all layers we trimmed perfectly, and the fringe was....stiff (for lack of a better word). Almost like it had been brushed and hair sprayed straight. It looked amazing, and as a I ran my finger through it, it snapped right back to its form! Is there something I'm missing to achieve this effect? The first layer is 1/16 of an inch, the second under 1/2 inch, and the third layer under 3/4ths of an inch.