X Marks the Scot - An on-line community of kilt wearers.
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25th February 04, 05:20 PM
#1
Scottish Kilts
Those interested in the Scottish kilt may find the following comments of help/interest (or may think it a load of rubbish) and is based on my own experiences/learning/observations. I cannot comment on utilikilts, amerikilts etc as I have little or no knowledge/experience of these.
Ignoring the great kilt, which I have only ever seen worn at historical re-enactments etc and which is frankly not a particularly suitable garment for modern day living, there are basically 3 types of Scottish kilt.
The first is the original traditional kilt, beloved by kilt makers the world over. This is the longest of the 3, hand-sewn from around 8 yards of at least 13/14oz wool and has a high waist reaching up to just under the ribcage. When worn formally it is usually matched with the Prince Charlie jacket and vest, which covers the top of the kilt (no belt is worn here), and the bottom edge is on or just above (but definitely never ever below) the centre of the kneecap. Army kilts are always this type.
The second is the "modern" (ie over the past 20 years or so) version of the traditional kilt. Hand-sewn from 6-9 yards of wool (dependent on hip size), this is currently the most popular. The wool weight is usually 13/14oz but 16oz is widely available to order. Designed to sit at normal trouser level (ie covers the navel) and when worn formally is popularly paired with the Argyle jacket and worn with a belt. The bottom edge will be somewhere between top and mid kneecap. This type lends itself much more readily to be worn semi-dress/informally than the original.
The third is the casual kilt. Machine-sewn from 4-6 yards of wool which can range from 11/12oz up to 16oz. Also designed to sit at normal trouser level and is generally worn slightly shorter than the previous 2, ie just touching the top of the knee or up to an inch above. Most popular use is for hiking/camping/outdoor pursuits or just general casual wear.
The first 2 are obviously the most expensive, but it has to be remembered that top quality materials are used and the labour costs are high - it takes around 21 hours for a skilled kilt maker to make one of these, but with a reasonable amount of care and attention it will outlast the owner. Whereas a casual kilt is made in a day and has a life expectancy similar to trousers ie 2-5 years dependent on usage. Interestingly (or maybe not), here in Scotland only the first 2 are referred to simply as "kilts" - the third is always qualified in some way eg casual kilt, hiking kilt, sports kilt, drinking kilt etc.
If you've managed to get to the end of this I hope there was something (anything!) of interest, and I should give advance warning that I may give in to temptation and submit further Scottish viewpoints on the rest of the kilt outfit ie hats/jackets/sporrans/socks/shoes, even (shock horror) what is (or isn't) worn underneath.
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