A choice between doublets

[Sir Didymous]

I'm working on building my kilt wear wardrobe and am at a point of indecision. I like the look of doublets for formal and semi-formal attire, more so than Argyles and PCs. But the question I have been toying with is what kind? There are Regulation, Kenmore, Sheriffmuir, Montrose, and I am sure that there are others that I have over looked. So if you were to pick, which would you choose? Vote and respond with your reasons.

[Nathan]

Doublets are generally formal wear so a doublet won't replace an argyll but it can conceivably replace the Charlie. For Black tie, I like the look of a regulation doublet. It's a lot like a PC but is just different enough to not look cookie cutter.

Personally I have a PC and two formal doublets. I have a kenmore/balmoral doublet in Green Barrathea and a black velvet doublet (kind of like a single breasted Montrose). I like having choice.

The only time I've seen a doublet work for semi-formal (North American meaning - business suit equivalent) is Matt Newsome's tweed Sherrifmuir doublet and waistcoat, but that is a unique and beautiful garment but it is also one that defies convention by it's very nature, juxtaposing a formal cut with a hearty country cloth.

Again all that is to say that if you get a fancy doublet, it doesn't replace the Argyll and unless it's a regulation doublet, it doesn't really replace the PC either. You may find you are overdressed at many occasions.

[LitTrog]

I agree with Nathan that doublets will generally (the Newsome exception noted) not be appropriate for semi-formal events, but if you really want to have a doublet available to you, I vote for the Sheriffmuir. I've only had the occasion to wear mine a few times, but I love the look of it. Will not be confused with a PC the way a Regulation might (to untrained eyes like mine) and is much cooler and less confining than the Montrose is reported to be.

*EDIT: As you can see, it works just as well without all the frilly, lacy stuff

[Father Bill]

And the Sheriffmuir is more forgiving if you add an ounce or two to your girth.

[OC Richard]

Yes I want this one! A nice Thomas Gordon & Son melton doublet...

Or this one!



Yep I've always wanted this one, the nearly universal doublet style c1850-c1910. This evolved into the Regulation Doublet, but I prefer the original.

The early years of the 20th century saw a suite of new doublets introduced. Judging from my vintage catalogues the first new one was "the Coatee" or the "Prince Charlie" as we call it. Then the Montrose and Kenmore, strange in their quasi-military standup collars (quite rare for civilian doublets in the 19th century). Not sure about the Sherrifmuir but it doesn't appear in my catalogues from the 1920s and 30s.

[Cygnus]

I voted for the Regulation Doublet because it's a pretty versatile piece of clothing - not only does it do black- and white-tie equally well, but it's more forgiving of fluctuations of the waistline than most doublets.

That said, if I had more financial and diametric stability, I'd probably opt for a velvet Balmoral doublet...

[saxandpipes]

I agree with Nathan that doublets will generally (the Newsome exception noted) not be appropriate for semi-formal events, but if you really want to have a doublet available to you, I vote for the Sheriffmuir. I've only had the occasion to wear mine a few times, but I love the look of it. Will not be confused with a PC the way a Regulation might (to untrained eyes like mine) and is much cooler and less confining than the Montrose is reported to be.

*EDIT: As you can see, it works just as well without all the frilly, lacy stuff

This looks awesome LitTrog. I love your doublet- and I also like it without the frills.

Cheers!

Michael

[MacLowlife]

I think the problem with doublets - if there is one - is that we keep trying to be practical and economical about a garment that is inherently neither. In spite of my expanded waistline, I have two Montrose doublets, one velvet and one barathea. I have a hybrid Sherrifmuir - Balmoral that came to me with large round buttons and no waistcoat. And I have recently acquired a burgundy velvet Indian jacket that I specified a shorter length. I am still deciding whether or not to call it a doublet or a "Nehru-Argyll". They are all a lot of fun, but I have two occasions or three at the outside to wear these things annually. Sometimes, you want to stand out and they are great ( but then so is my scarlet PC, or even the bandsman's jacket in my avatar, which is also red ) and sometimes you'd like to be quietly elegant. I am leaning towards a blue or black velvet jacket cut in the Argyll style for that quieter look. People love to touch velvet. I think it is about as inappropriate for daywear as a PC is, but these are jackets for men who already own several.
I stumbled across a beautiful saxon blazer made up in Black Watch velvet. It is a size too small for me and I looked for it for over two years. I have been dreaming of finding its closet mate in the correct size for another year or losing 15 pounds. So far, neither has occurred. In the most perfect world, I would have that jacket made into an evening Argyll, perhaps with some black trim at the cuffs.

[LitTrog]

I'm not bashing the jabot and cuffs broadly, just on me. Father Bill can wear them and they look very appropriate. If I were to wear them, it would be as jarring (and as destined to crash and burn) as this:




The difference is class. I gots me none.

[David Thorpe]

I like the look of doublets for formal and semi-formal attire, more so than Argyles and PCs.

A doublet won't replace a tweed Argyle for day wear. It is strictly a formal evening wear garment, and would look totally out of place for anything besides a formal evening occasion. (Matt's beautiful tweed Sheriffmuir is in a class by itself.)