Antigonish Plaids

[Nathan]

My brother xman pointed out this very interesting article to me and so I thought I'd share it with the rabble.

http://www.tartansauthority.com/rese...gonish-plaids/

Slàinte!

[creagdhubh]

Fantastic article, I recall reading it once before. Peter MacDonald (figheadair) is a member on XMTS as well. I always thoroughly enjoy his articles, as does the rabble!

Slàinte,

[figheadair]

The STA piece is an extract of the full paper. I'd very much like to get back one day and get some better pictures of the Gillies plaid. It's undoubtedly the most technically difficult piece to weave by hand I've ever seen and the real joy is that it's complete. I recreated the whole plaid c1990, sold it and by the offices of a good friend was given it back a couple of years ago. It will get passed down to one of my children in due time. But which one?

[Nathan]

Peter: Regarding the "full border" on these plaids, a point of clarification.

Is it just that there is a typical selvedge on 4 sides instead of two or is the method of achieving the selvedge peculiar also?

[figheadair]

It's not possible to have a selvedge on four sides of a piece of cloth. The self-edge is a function of the weaving process and only occurs at the sides. The ends of a traditional plaid were turned and sewn (hemmed) - see my articles on Selvedge techniques and Joined Plaids

In the case of the 'full border' the cloth in both plaids had a selvedge pattern that differed from the main sett and this arrangement was woven at the beginning and end of the cloth in the case of the single width piece and for the double width plaid was woven twice in the middle too.

The technical skill to weave the double width plaid was considerable because it wasn't a case of simply weaving a length, cutting it in half and joining the two lengths, each run before and after the central border section had to have the exact same number of repeats for the pattern to align once cut and joined. If that was not clear from the paper then perhaps I need to amend it?

[Nathan]

It's not possible to have a selvedge on four sides of a piece of cloth. The self-edge is a function of the weaving process and only occurs at the sides. The ends of a traditional plaid were turned and sewn (hemmed) - see my articles on Selvedge techniques and Joined Plaids

In the case of the 'full border' the cloth in both plaids had a selvedge pattern that differed from the main sett and this arrangement was woven at the beginning and end of the cloth in the case of the single width piece and for the double width plaid was woven twice in the middle too.

The technical skill to weave the double width plaid was considerable because it wasn't a case of simply weaving a length, cutting it in half and joining the two lengths, each run before and after the central border section had to have the exact same number of repeats for the pattern to align once cut and joined. If that was not clear from the paper then perhaps I need to amend it?

Maybe it's not you. I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing, even still. Especially how "The double width cloth was woven twice in the middle". I don't know what you mean.

Sorry. Maybe I lack some skill in abstract 3 dimensional mental imaging and would require diagrams or detailed photos. Thanks for trying again. I think I understand a little more.

[figheadair]

Anyone else having trouble with the concept? Would it help to see a breakdown of the process?

[sydnie7]

Anyone else having trouble with the concept? Would it help to see a breakdown of the process?

I believe I understand what you're describing, but a breakdown of the process would be fascinating.

[figheadair]

I believe I understand what you're describing, but a breakdown of the process would be fascinating.

Here's a simple diagramatic explanation - I hope?

[sydnie7]

Yes, that's the picture your words had painted (without the added detail of "unwoven portion" where the cut would be made -- but that makes total sense too).

Thank you.