Quick Kilt History Question

[Harper]

Hello,

Would a three-buckle kilt be right for "the '45?" If not I'm told - by the nice folks over a Celtic Croft - that their phillabeg is good to, "at least the late 1600's."

But if the three-buckle is good for 1745 I'll probably get one. Is it?

Much obliged for your kind assistance.

[Dughlas mor]

Well, I`m no expert, but I think that the fheilidh beg, or small kilt would be much more correct for the era of the"45." It only came into existence early in the 18th century and I believe would have been quite common at the time of the last Jacobite rising, along with the fheilidh mor, or great kilt. I don`t think the modern kilt with two or three straps and buckles appeared until Victorian times. Hope that helps, I`m sure someone with greater knowledge will set us straight.

[Mikilt]

Try some of these articles. They are a wealth of kilt history.

http://www.albanach.org/articles.html

[figheadair]

Dughlas Mor is correct. There is no evidence of buckles on the kilt until the early 19th century. As far as I know the three buckle kilt is a mid-20th century innovation.

[Calgacus]

Celtic Croft's phillabeg looks to be a pretty good representation of what would have been worn at that period. A three buckle 'modern' kilt would not, so if it's re-enactment you are doing, or something similar, then the phillabeg is definitely the way to go.

[OC Richard]

Many military kilts were pinned up until fairly recent times. (But not a safety pin... this was invented in 1849.)

I'd go with that method, or held in place with a belt.

[Harper]

Thanks, all - but all this, and my wife (she's the smart one), have convinced me to go with the great kilt instead. So, another question, if I may: how do I pin it up with the brooch? Do I just pin it to my potain? I guess I'd have to put a reinforcement on the leather if I do.

Thanks again.

[Pleater]

The great kilt is usually worn over a tunic length shirt and secured with a wide belt - you might find that wearing a leather waistcoat is not going to work well.

I associate brooches on the shoulder with the small fly plaid. To hold the corner of a great kilt I used a length of cord, made a noose at one end for the corner of the fabric and then tied the other end to my belt buckle.

The fabric was repurposed into a dressing gown quite quickly - all those folds were for ever getting snagged on door handles and furniture.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[The Wizard of BC]

While you can find quite a few entries on the web about Great Kilts the fact is that we simply do not have any definitive, historical description of what a Great Kilt was or how it was worn.

We do have good solid historical documentation of a universal garment from around the same period. It is the Matchcoat. While usually associated with N. America the use of a blanket as a multipurpose outer garment is found all over the world.

The Irish Leine and Brat would probably have been a very similar idea and concept.

If you would like to take a look at this I think you will find it very interesting.

http://www.oldetoolshop.com/trekking...atchcoats.html

[figheadair]

Historically there would have been several methods of securing the upper portion of the belted plaid and in simple terms would have depended on the pocket of the wearer. Early writings talk about (the poor) clansman fastening his plaid with a piece of bone or a simple wooden pin. A large brooch would have been a serious status symbol and it's interesting to note that none, so far as I know, appear in any 17th/18th century portrait. In those the wearer, invariably a gentleman, appears to have the plaid fastened slightly to the rear of their left (generally) shoulder. This was probably done with a small loop fastened to a button, possibly the epaulette button or through a small tape or similar piece of material.

None of the surviving plaids, whole or portions, has any form of fastening loop. This does not mean of course that they were not used, simply that the none of the few surviving specimens show this technique. There are a couple of Highland Revival jackets c1800-10 that have shoulder tapes/straps but it’s difficult to know whether these are an historical revival or whether they were a contemporary fashion, perhaps military, that was employed as a practical solution.