Adding (At least) a Stabilzer to a SWK Economy Wool

[Mathew MacKillop]

Greetings Noble Rabble,

I am hoping for some advice from our resident pros, be they professional kiltmakers or "mere" hobbyist, I won't complain!

I have a Stillwater Kilt Economy Wool (Black Watch, though that makes no difference in this context), and though I truly love the thing, and plan on wearing it AT LEAST as often as pants (will need to wait until I have more kilts for full-time wear; it would be noticeable and frowned upon if I wore the same one every day). These kilts have Zero internal structure, just 5-6 yards of wool, straps, buckles and liner that is only sewn down at the top.
After reading a few threads here, it is becoming apparent that I may need to add in the lacking structural reinforcements if I plan on wearing this kilt often and having it last a long, long time.
However, I have an extremely limited budget (as in, if I can spend nothing on this it would be for the better). Lucky for me, I have several kind lady friends who are more than competent with needle and thread, so the labour will cost me only a few bottles of beer or a bottle of wine.
Now, there are sufficient threads in existence already that the how-to of adding a stabilizer and interfacing should not be an issue. The materials, though, and the necessity of the interfacing, are the intended subjects of this thread.
Considering that I am not dealing with 8 yards of wool, is the interfacing necessary, or will just adding a stabilizer do the job?
What readily available materials can I use for these? I could purchase hair canvas for the interface if needed, but I need such a small amount that it seems silly to purchase the minimum yard of fabric to do this. What should I use for the stabilizer? Are there any materials I am likely to have lying about good enough (old jeans, bed sheets, t-shirts and dress shirts, etc.)?

Thanks in Advance!

Mathew

[The Wizard of BC]

Hi Matthew,

Here is my take on your project.

First, for what you paid for it, I'm not convinced that you would be gaining much by doing anything to your kilt.

If you do decide to modify it here is what I would do.

Total cost - about $20.00

You will need 2 yards Hair Canvas @ 24" wide.

A length of broadcloth 2" wide long enough to reach the entire length of the kilt from outer apron strap to underapron strap. A Pillowcase or old sheet will work real well. Any material that has no, zero, none, nada, ziltch, stretch along the grain.

Needle, thimble, scissors. iron, beeswax

A spool of good 100% Polyester thread about the same color as your broadcloth. No one will probably ever see this.

A piece of any thin fabric for a new lining. Inexpensive quilting fabric is fine. You will need three pieces about 24" long by about 8-9" wide. Traditionally the lining is black but this is not a hard and fast, written rule.

How to proceed.
1) cut the existing lining out and discard
2) decide if you want to cut away the pleats inside the kilt. If they are poofy and would cause 'pillow butt' I would cut them away.
3) cut a piece of hair canvas as wide as your Fell is long. Lay it inside the kilt at the Fell. Sew to the inside pleat fabric but not all the way through to the outside.
Every few inches make a 1" fold in the hair canvas. This give vertical stability and adds strength. Use one piece in the center back and one each from the apron edges toward the center back. Overlap the three pieces and sew together firmly.
All the stitching of this interfacing should be very secure. It is what is holding everything together and will be there but hidden for a long time. If this stitching fails the kilt falls apart.
4) Stretch your broadcloth stabilizer all the way across the kilt from the outer apron strap, across the inside, and on top of the interfacing, over to the under apron strap. Sew the stabilizer to the hair canvas at the level of the straps. This is what keeps the straps from pulling and distorting the Tartan or popping the pleat stitching.
5) Sew a new lining on. One piece inside the inner apron. One piece in the center back. One piece inside the outer apron. This covers up all the work you have just done. Make this lining look nice and neat.

Strap on your kilt and enjoy.

[Mathew MacKillop]

Hi Steve!

Thanks for the response and the step-by-step. Exactly what I was hoping for. A question, though: what would be the reason that a small investment might not be worth it for the price I paid?
My idea was that, in adding the stabilizer and interface, I would be preventing future distortion of the fabric, popped stitches, and the inevitability of the kilt no longer fitting as it stretches. Is it a matter of the wool that was used not being up to the test of time to start with?
While I do plan on adding to my kilt collection, and getting custom fitted kilts while I'm at it, I would like to think that this one I have will then be usable for camping/hiking and other less public occasions. If there really is no point, for whatever reason, I won't bother, but if reinforcing this kilt will help it stay in shape and last a few years more than it would otherwise, I would deem it worth the effort.

Regards,

Mathew

[The Wizard of BC]

I guess it all depends on how much your labor is worth.

Let's say you spend $20.00 on materials.
And let's say it takes you five hours of sewing time.

If you charge yourself minimum wage for sewing you have just exceeded the cost of the kilt.

If your OK with that then I say go ahead for just the reasons you have given. The kilt will look better and last longer than without the work.
You already know that it will never be a formal kilt. But for your intended use it is perfect. The work will make it last longer, and look better longer, for its intended use.

[Mathew MacKillop]

Oh, I get it!

Thankfully for me, I need not worry about stabbing myself with needles; I have 2 volunteers who are willing to do the job for the cost of a bottle of wine! It may not get done immediately, or even very quickly, but (especially seeing as I will be partaking in said bottle of wine) it seems like a good deal to me.

Thanks again, Steve!

[The Wizard of BC]

If they have not made a kilt before, and if you do not have a copy of TAoK, then find two or three of the threads where people have opened up kilts and/or rebuilt them.
Have your computer handy so they can see what all these words mean.

A kilt is actually a very complex garment when you get to this level. A traditional kilt as described in TAoK is the most complex garment in the world next to a man's custom made suit coat.

It's not sewing a skirt.

So having a reference like some of our threads that can make a big difference.

[Glen]

Greetings Noble Rabble,

After reading a few threads here, it is becoming apparent that I may need to add in the lacking structural reinforcements if I plan on wearing this kilt often and having it last a long, long time.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...20#post1264820