Tartan? & construction query?

[Lady Grey]

Another op-shop find. Does anyone recognize the tartan & manufacturer?
I like the colours & it had a deep hem otherwise I'm not impressed with the construction and have some questions for those more knowledgable.
- approx late '60's early '70's by my guess (threads, stitch length, press studs, etc)
-box pleated, darts in the aprons... I think made for a teenage girl.
- it has the usual home sewn repairs to small rips & tears as would be expected.
-however the construction is rather shabby and not consistent.
Did kilt makers use domestic outsourcing for their garments?
Would different sections of construction be sent out to different sewers?
The sewing of the pleats is different to the darts, the fringe is sewn differently to the waistband,etc, etc. different threads, some industrial some domestic, different hand sewing, different techniques used throughout.
Hope someone can help?
LG
Ok...apologies but the oompa loompas won't let me upload a picture. I'll try again later.
The maker is
Wm.Anderson & Sons Ltd
Edinburgh & Glasgow
By Appt To King George VI

[Lady Grey]

No idea why it's double & upside down
SORRY

[Steve Ashton]

The Tartan is Anderson. I can't tell anything else from the photos.
Would it be possible to take some with a bit more detail or close ups of the areas you are talking about?

[Lady Grey]

Thank you Steve.
Sorry, other than the tag, I've pulled it apart, washed it and I'm waiting for it to dry, so I don't have any photos of the construction.
I just wondered about out sourcing?
Off to research Anderson Tartan

[Downunder Kilt]

I see a number of These pleated skirts in op shops, here in Victoria, quite a few in Anderson tartan also . They are in a lightweight twill weave, (9 or/10oz I believe) usually by Ingles Buchan in Scotland they are are of the same weight as tartan clan tartan scarves

[Jock Scot]

The "By Appointment to King George V1" does give a clue of construction date. Anywhere(depending on the issue year of the Royal Warrant) between 1936 and 1952. If protocol has been properly followed and it is usually strictly adhered to, The Royal Warrant wording changes after The Kings death to; "By Appointment to the Late King George V1". This wording is used for 5 years after the Kings death and then the Royal Warrant is defunct. So in this case 1957. A new Monarch can bestow, if they so choose, a new Warrant in their own name to the same company.

[Lady Grey]

Thanks Jock
It's the construction that has me so intrigued.
I've spent years handling, photographing, researching and cataloging antique & vintage clothing.
I've never seen anything like it, I started inspecting it and could immediately see the 'home repairs' it's fairly standard in garments of wool and other quality fabrics.They were made to last and not be thrown away therefore they were darned, patched, re-hemmed and handed down.
Yes, it could certainainly be older than I originally thought (although I'm surprised at the good condition of the fabric given the probable age)
But the sewing/construction.... Ugh! It's a shambles. Note: Im pretty certain it hasn't been pulled apart and re purposed as I'm doing.

I've catalogued wedding dresses & ball gowns and when researching their history, it's common to find that mother and sister or Aunty all worked on a special garment together for the bride. This can be seen in the various sections and the different stitches, tacking, even the way the trims are attached.

This kilt is totally different. I know in the past weaving was done at home and then delivered to the main company/factory to be made up.
I'm wondering if the cutting & marking was done in-house, then sent offsite for construction? Returning to the main business for pressing, labelling and sale.
Oh well it's still a mystery.

[Jock Scot]

I hesitate to offer a view here, but I suspect that the garment in question was made during the war(WW2), or in the period after the war where rationing and real shortages existed and where "make do and mend" still continued well after 1952. The description for just about anything made in that period was "jerry built", meaning rubbish!