Best Fabric for a Highland Games Kilt?

[Branwyn]

I've not been able to find a solid forum thread on this topic, so I hope this is a good place for this question.

I've plans to make my husband-to-be a kilt in which he will compete in the local Highland games. However, there seem to be more fabric options than I previously thought! The games are in August, so it's going to be pretty hot... I was expecting to make the kilt from a lighter wool tartan, but I've seen hints on the forum that it is unusual to compete in a wool kilt - is this the case?

I've also seen mention of tartan available in a fabric containing viscose, which sounded like it was more suitable for the athleticism of the games... but would a kilt from this material be fine to wear outside of the games? Or would that be like wearing your jogging pants out to a nice restaurant?

I think he really has his heart set on a more traditional-looking kilt for the games, rather than a modern kilt that might be more suitable... though if that's really the way to go, I'd like to know that as well.

So anyways, now I'm a little confused. Advice is welcome - whether from a maker or a wearer!

Thanks,

B.

[Barb T]

i make kilts, but I also wear a heavy weight band kilt nearly every weekend during the summer as a piper at both Highland games and parades (Upstate NY, so similar to Ontario). In my experience, the hot part of wearing a kilt is the hose and the area under the belt. Neither of those have anything to do with the weight of the tartan. Many guys competing in heavy athletics wears boots/sneakers with low or scrunched-down socks, and the air circulates under the kilt itself, so, except for the waist area, tartan weight doesn't really make a kilt hotter.

Heavy weight tartan does tend to be pricklier than medium weight tartan or PV, but I just wear bike shorts under neath. Lots of guys who do heavy athletics do the same.

I'm sure the guys who do heavy athletics (like Alan H.) will chime in on this from a competitor's point of view. Just thought I'd add mine!

[The Wizard of BC]

One of the really great thing about kiltmaking today is that we have all sorts of options.

When competing in Heavy Events you have to remember that you will be sweating and also doing things that are very prone to damaging a kilt. This is the whole reason that kilts began to be made specifically for heavy event athletes.

The Viscose you mention is the British word for Rayon. So P/V is, to those of us in N. America, a Polyester and Rayon blend. Currently there is a lot of confusion about this fabric as many makers in Pakistan and other places began to use "P/V" to mean any synthetic fabric. If you look on the web you will see phrasing such as "Heavy weight P/V". In fact the actual composition may be almost anything but is usually Acrylic. The "heavy weight" does not mean the weight of the fabric but the thickness. Acrylic fabrics can be woven loosely so to feel thicker and yet the actual weight in ounces per linear yard is quite light.

There is currently only one weaving company which weaves a kilt quality P/V fabric. That is Marton Mills. The fabric is listed in grams per square meters but I have converted those into ounces per linear yard and it comes to 12oz per linear yard @ 60" wide.

The Marton Mills P/V are completely machine washable and dryable. This is why I make all of my rental and athlete kilts in Marton Mills P/V. Some kilts in my rental fleet have been through the washer and dryer 20 to 25 times and have not needed to be touched by an iron since the day they were made.

This fabric is also quite reasonably priced. Well under 1/2 the cost for 16oz wool fabrics. Currently Rocky at USA Kilts and myself are, I believe, the largest users of P/V. Rocky does not sell fabric at retail but I do. You may also contact Marton Mills direct.

A lot of people wonder how P/V compares to the look and swish of wool.

In this photo the kilt in the center is 16oz wool from Marton Mills, in the X Marks Tartan.
The kilts on the left and right are Marton Mills 12oz P/V. Black Watch and Canadian Maple Leaf respectively.

[Branwyn]

The Marton Mills P/V are completely machine washable and dryable. This is why I make all of my rental and athlete kilts in Marton Mills P/V. Some kilts in my rental fleet have been through the washer and dryer 20 to 25 times and have not needed to be touched by an iron since the day they were made.

This fabric is also quite reasonably priced. Well under 1/2 the cost for 16oz wool fabrics. Currently Rocky at USA Kilts and myself are, I believe, the largest users of P/V. Rocky does not sell fabric at retail but I do. You may also contact Marton Mills direct.

Well, that all makes a pretty strong case for the PV! I checked Marton Mills online and the only Scott tartan they list there is Scott Weathered, which I think is way too brown for my tastes... I was hoping for a Scott Green Ancient. You don't happen to have some of that lying around for retail?

B.

[The Wizard of BC]

Branwyn, I'm sorry, you posted after I had closed the shop for the day. Tomorrow I'll check my master list and let you know what I find out.

[OC Richard]

In this photo the kilt in the center is 16oz wool from Marton Mills, the kilts on the left and right are Marton Mills 12oz P/V

What would be very interesting to see is a group of kilts, some 12oz PV and some 13oz wool. I'm guessing that they would be nearly impossible to distinguish.

In that photo the 16oz kilt is obvious.

[MacRob]

I have three kilts. Two are 13 oz. worsted and one is 16 oz. worsted. The 16 oz. kilt hangs better and wears better than the other two. Of course it is heavier but in the heat and humidity of a southern summer the difference is not all that great between it and the lighter fabric. However, since you are looking at a kilt for your husband to wear in competition I would go with the lighter weight. The synthetics just do not do it for me and the only one in our family belongs to our 13 year old grandson who outgrows everything almost before we get it for him. For dress or daywear however, the 16 oz. cannot be beat.

[The Wizard of BC]

Branwyn, I'm sorry, I do not see Scot Green (A) among the stock P/V fabrics on my master list.

[Branwyn]

Branwyn, I'm sorry, I do not see Scot Green (A) among the stock P/V fabrics on my master list.

Thanks for checking! I may have to expand my options to find something available, so I'll definitely keep you in mind when I come to that point.

B.

[Blupiper]

Branwyn:

I now compete only in the piping comps, but a few years ago tried my hand at the heavy athletics. I tried both PV's and acrylics from a number of makers and found that they are both good substitutes for wool and a lot easier to clean and manage. The costs are less, there are many makers for off the peg or bespoke options and you can probably find a tartan which appeals to you. An added bonus: you will look better than those guys who arrive with a tablecloth wrapped around their waist. Better bragging rights in the Beer Tent later, too.

JMB