Might I be right in assessing that in constructing a barrell/roll/military box pleat kilt, I just calculate the width of the pleats at waist and hip as for a large yardage knife pleat, but then sew the fell as for a traditional box pleat (not folding the other side of pleat as I sew, unlike a knife pleat), and instead of trying to make a box on the wrong side of the kilt, just flip them so that their edges point towards the right-hand side of the kilt and baste in that position?

I have seen some pics of Amanda Moffat's (from Scotclans) mil box pleats on Instagram and she (and Gordon Nicholson's by extension, where she learned) seems to baste each pleat down the middle to fix it to the underlying fabric.

Does anyone have much experience with this pleating type that they might be kind enough to share?

Thanks kindly,

Michael