Current list of Kiltmakers using Marton Mills PV?

[stomper38]

After a ridiculous amount of time looking around here, and elsewhere, I've decided that I want to order a (true) PV kilt as my starter. I understand that MM is the be-all for this. I also understand that Freedom and USA use it, but have also seen somewhere that J. Higgins may, as well. Does anyone know, for certain, who definitely uses MM PV these days? Most of the info I've come across is a year or more old. Thanks, in advance. Your time is appreciated.

EDIT: typos

[Riverkilt]

Well, you can't lose with a USA kilt for starters. I put off ordering from them for a year because I thought all the praise was just hype. Finally ordered anyway and found out the hype was valid. Since then I've purchased 30, yep THIRTY, USA Kilts. One reason - VALUE! Top quality at a fair price. They earned my business with their quality work.

Course, have a ball and do all the research and ordering from wherever that your mind and heart lead you...just my experience and suggestion if you're looking for a no risk purchase.

[Mike S]

USA Kilts gets my vote too. Great workmanship, prices, and they are a joy to deal with as well.

[Geoff Withnell]

I have ordered from both Freedom Kilts and USA Kilts. You can't go wrong with either.

[Tobus]

I couldn't speak for the big companies, but most of the smaller kiltmakers or individual kiltmakers can use fabric from any mill you choose. People like Bonnie Heather Greene, Barbara Tewksbury, and other highly-regarded kiltmakers are not just tied to one mill. Of course, they will certainly have their preferences on which mills they will work with, or what types of material they will use.

[stomper38]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the input. Ideally, I would love to get something made by Freedom, or someone similar, that was exactingly made for me. In reality, the means just aren't there, at this point. USA is definitely on the short list, but I'm not sure how thrilled I am with the idea of velcro, in lieu of buckles, and the semi-trad is pushing the budget to uncomfortable levels for a starter, having never worn one before. I'm aware that many people have and love them, and I probably would, as well. I'm guessing most newbies feel this way (seems to be so, from what I've read here so far). If I'm going to invest in this, I'm leaning toward the higher quality of the MM PV over acrylic, unless my thinking that it's a big step up over acrylic is unfounded. I was originally looking at cheap Amazon kilts, when this all started. Then, I found this place, and fell down the rabbit hole. Wool is cost-prohibitive, and a much greater investment than I care to make right now. Does anyone know if J Higgins does, in fact, use Marton Mills, or any other sites I can look at that do, for certain? I don't want to throw my money away and be unhappy, and end up just tossing it in my closet and giving up on the idea, as a whole. On a side note, my youngest daughter is completely turned off by the whole idea and thinks I'm a ridiculous, old man, and my wife is worried I'll wear it out and embarrass the kids and get them picked on. I should probably care more then I actually do, but...

[Geoff Withnell]

Real P-V is a MAJOR step up from acrylic. It looks better, doesn't pill as readily, holds a pleat and resists wrinkles better, doesn't stain as easily... If you are getter the idea that I would advise you to stick with PV, you are right! The semi-trad from USAKilts not only has straps, but it has more fabric and pleats than the Casual, so it is a good buy. If the Velcro bothers you, let me say this. I have a number of both Semi-Trad and Casual kilts. The Velcro Rocky uses is not what I would call standard Velcro. It holds quite securely, and I have a Casual that has seen years of use, with frequent wear and washings, and the Velcro is as good as new. And if you plan to wear a belt, the Velcro doesn't show at all. If you can swing the increase, I think the Semi-trad is worth it, but the Casual can also be made to your measurements, and is a very acceptable inexpensive intro to kilting.

[stomper38]

Definitely helpful info, Geoff. Thanks for the clarification on the velcro. I guess that does reassure me a bit and make me more comfortable with looking at the casuals. Still haven't made up my mind, but it's a step closer!

[The Wizard of BC]

The outer fabric that the kilt is made from is one consideration in choosing a kilt. But that is not the only criteria that you need to make your selection.

The construction methods used are actually far more important.

It is quite common to call a ladies Tartan pleated skirt a kilt because it is made from Tartan but a ladies skirt is constructed like a skirt, not a kilt.
It is quite common for the casual style and the MUG style garments to be called kilts but they too are constructed differently.

The Iconic kilt worn by the military and by pipe bands is perhaps the most complex and structured garment today. They are made the way garments were made in the past before the advent of blue jeans and mass production.

Inside a kilt is a liner. Many people think that this is put in there to keep the kilt clean. Well, if that were true then it would be removable and washable.
Some think that the liner is there to give a smooth surface that does not itch against the skin.

In fact the liner is there because there are construction details built into the kilt that would be unsightly if not covered.

The pleats in the back of a kilt can become quite thick. What we call 'pillow butt'. To keep the back of the kilt thin and prevent pillow butt and excess sweating, we cut-away the excess fabric.



But as you can imagine this significantly weakens the garment.

We already have a garment made from very supple twill weave fabric.



Without some form of strengthening built into the kilt this type of fabric will stretch out of shape and not remain the same size.

There is also fact that hand stitching is inherently weaker than machine stitching.

So, built into the back of an Iconic (and I include the Contemporary style of kilt that I make) are strengthening elements. These include a stripe called stabilizer which acts like a waistband. This is where the straps and buckles are sewn and resist the garment from stretching when strapped on.

There is also full floating interfacing. This give vertical body to the kilt, and allowing the other fabric to drape and swish naturally.



All of this 'stuff' is then hidden from view by a light fabric liner.

It is quite common for the kilts made in the Middle East to have a liner. But if you lift that liner you will find that there are none of these internal elements. The only reason that the liner is there is because the iconic kilt has one.



Yes true Marton Mills fabric is a miracle fabric. Rocky and I both use it, not because it is less expensive, but because it offers some features not available with wool.
It is totally machine washable and dryable.
It will hold a pleat crease almost permanently.
It is almost totally wrinkle free.
And the Teflon coating makes it very stain resistant.

But please, take a look at the construction of the garment and not the fabric alone. A well constructed garment like Rocky and I make is a joy to own and wear. Quality construction will allow many years of wear and a proper fit will insure that the kilt swishes and drapes well.

[stomper38]

Wow! Thanks for such an in depth response and incredible wealth of information. I guess I'm sold on a USA Casual for a first go. If it's something I really get into, I'll be looking at your beautiful handiwork, for sure. Thanks to all of you for your responses and information. Much appreciated!